Air Enthalpy Calculator (HVAC)

Moist-air enthalpy in BTU/lb from dry-bulb and wet-bulb or relative humidity

Computes moist-air enthalpy from dry-bulb temperature and humidity, deriving the humidity ratio from wet-bulb temperature or relative humidity, matching psychrometric-chart values at sea level. For HVAC engineers and controls technicians setting up enthalpy economizer control. It runs free in your browser on Gera Tools, with nothing uploaded.

Last updated Source: Gera Tools

What is the enthalpy formula used here?

Total moist-air enthalpy is h = 0.24 × T + W × (1061 + 0.444 × T), where T is dry-bulb in Fahrenheit and W is the humidity ratio in pounds of water per pound of dry air. The first term is sensible heat of the dry air, the second is the latent and sensible heat carried by the water vapor.

Enthalpy is the total heat content of moist air, sensible plus latent, and it is the quantity an enthalpy economizer compares to decide whether outdoor air can provide free cooling. This calculator computes moist-air enthalpy in BTU per pound of dry air from a dry-bulb temperature and either a wet-bulb temperature or relative humidity.

How it works

The enthalpy equation combines dry-air and water-vapor heat:

h = 0.24 × T + W × (1061 + 0.444 × T)      (BTU per lb dry air)

where T is dry-bulb in °F and W is the humidity ratio. To get W from relative humidity the tool finds the saturation vapor pressure at T, scales it by RH, and applies:

W = 0.621945 × p_vapor / (P_atm − p_vapor)

From a wet-bulb temperature it instead uses the psychrometric balance between the saturation humidity ratio at the wet-bulb and the dry-bulb depression. Both paths match a sea-level psychrometric chart.

Example

At 75°F dry-bulb and 50% RH, the humidity ratio is about 0.0093 lb/lb and the enthalpy is roughly 28.2 BTU/lb. An enthalpy economizer might enable free cooling when outdoor enthalpy is below the return-air enthalpy minus a deadband. Use the wet-bulb input when you have a sling psychrometer reading, and set the barometric pressure correctly at altitude — lower pressure raises the humidity ratio and the computed enthalpy.

Temperature economizer vs enthalpy economizer

A temperature-only economizer enables the outdoor-air damper when the outdoor dry-bulb temperature is below a setpoint (commonly 65–70°F). This is simple but can admit very humid outdoor air in coastal and humid climates — for example, 65°F outdoor air at 90% RH has an enthalpy of about 30 BTU/lb, which may actually be higher than the 72°F, 50% RH return air at roughly 28 BTU/lb. Pulling in that air increases the latent (dehumidification) load on the cooling coil even though the outdoor temperature is “cool.”

An enthalpy economizer measures both temperature and moisture, computes total heat content, and only enables free cooling when outdoor enthalpy is genuinely below return-air enthalpy. This prevents the humid-air problem at the cost of more complex controls and sensor maintenance.

ASHRAE Standard 90.1 requires enthalpy-based or differential dry-bulb control (not simple dry-bulb) in certain climate zones and system sizes. For engineers specifying or commissioning economizers, computing outdoor enthalpy from field measurements is a critical check.

Sensor calibration and the enthalpy calculation

Enthalpy is highly sensitive to humidity measurement errors. A 5% RH error at 75°F dry-bulb shifts the computed enthalpy by roughly 1.5–2 BTU/lb, which is large enough to cause an economizer to make the wrong decision at the changeover setpoint. When commissioning an enthalpy economizer:

  • Verify the humidity sensor against a calibrated reference
  • Re-zero after any sensor replacement
  • Check periodically — humidity sensors drift more than temperature sensors

For field work, a sling psychrometer provides a reliable independent wet-bulb reading that can be entered here to cross-check the enthalpy against the controller’s display.