Mortar Mix & Volume Calculator

Calculate bags of mortar or dry-mix components for any masonry job

From wall dimensions and joint size, calculates the mortar volume a brick or block job needs and converts it into bags of pre-mixed mortar or separate bags of Portland cement and mason's sand at a Type S, N, or M ratio, with a 10% waste factor. It runs free in your browser on Gera Tools, with nothing uploaded.

Last updated Source: Gera Tools

How much mortar does a brick wall need?

A rough rule is about 7 cubic feet of mortar per 100 square feet of single-wythe brick wall with standard 3/8 inch joints, or roughly one 80 lb bag of pre-mixed mortar for every 30 to 35 bricks. Block walls use less mortar per square foot than brick.

Mortar quantity is driven by how much joint volume a wall has, which depends on the unit size, the joint thickness, and the wall area. This calculator estimates that volume, adds a waste allowance, and converts it into bags of pre-mixed mortar or into separate Portland cement and mason’s sand quantities at the ratio for your chosen mortar type.

Choosing the right mortar type

Picking the correct type is as important as estimating the quantity. ASTM classifies mortar into four main types for masonry:

TypeStrength profileTypical use
NMedium strength, most flexibleGeneral above-grade exterior walls, veneers, chimneys
SHigh strength, moderate flexibilityBelow-grade walls, retaining walls, at/below grade
MHighest strength, least flexibleFoundations, walks, sewers, heavy load-bearing
OLow strength, very flexibleInterior non-load-bearing, soft historic brick

Type N is the right choice for most residential above-grade brick work. It bonds well, accommodates slight movement from temperature cycling, and is easier to work with. Type S is specified where structural loads are higher or moisture exposure is significant. Type M is for foundations and work below grade where compressive strength matters most — but its rigidity makes it a poor choice where the masonry or substrate moves seasonally, since it cracks rather than flexing.

How it works

The tool starts from an empirical mortar-per-area figure that already accounts for the joint geometry of brick versus block, then scales by area and waste:

mortar volume (cu ft) = area_sqft × mortar_per_100sqft / 100 × (1 + waste)
premix bags           = ceil(volume / yield_per_bag)

For a site mix, the volume is split by the type’s cement-to-sand parts ratio:

  • Type N: roughly 1 part cement to 3 parts sand
  • Type S: roughly 1 part cement to 2.5 parts sand
  • Type M: roughly 1 part cement to 2.25 parts sand
cement volume = volume × (1 / (1 + sandParts))   then ÷ Portland-bag yield
sand volume   = volume × (sandParts / (1 + sandParts))

Worked example: 160 sq ft brick wall

A single-wythe brick wall of 160 square feet with standard 3/8 inch joints:

  • Mortar per 100 sq ft: approximately 7 cubic feet
  • Base volume: 160 × 7 / 100 = 11.2 cu ft
  • With 10% waste: 11.2 × 1.10 ≈ 12.3 cu ft
  • Pre-mixed 80 lb bags (approx. 0.9 cu ft yield each): about 14 bags

For a Type N site mix from the same volume:

  • Cement: 12.3 × (1/4) = 3.1 cu ft → roughly 3 bags of 94 lb Portland
  • Sand: 12.3 × (3/4) = 9.2 cu ft

Practical tips for mortar work

Batch size: mix only what you can place in roughly 90 minutes. Mortar that begins to stiffen must be discarded — never re-temper it by adding water, which destroys the bond strength.

Joint consistency: use a mortar board and keep it loaded with fresh mortar at the right working consistency. Mortar that drags rather than flows smoothly is getting stiff.

Weather: do not lay masonry if temperatures will fall below freezing before the mortar cures (usually 28 days to full strength). Cold mortar loses strength permanently. In hot weather, dampen the brick or block before laying to slow moisture absorption, which can pull water out of the mortar too quickly and weaken the bond.

Pointing and repointing: for repairs, rake existing joints to at least 3/4 inch depth before applying new mortar, and match the existing mortar type as closely as possible. Using a harder modern type (e.g., Type S or M) in old soft-brick walls can cause the bricks themselves to crack, since the brick and mortar need to move together.