Bracketing is how you beat a scene whose brightness range exceeds what one exposure can hold. This calculator builds the full bracket for you — pick a base exposure, a span and a step, and it prints every frame’s exact shutter speed, aperture or ISO value from darkest to brightest.
How it works
Each stop is a doubling or halving of light, so converting an EV offset to a real camera value depends on which parameter you vary.
Shutter speed and ISO are linear in light:
value = base × 2^(EV offset)
A base of 1/125 s bracketed +2 EV becomes (1/125) × 2^2 = 1/31 s ≈ 1/30 s.
Aperture controls light by area, so the f-number scales by the square root of two per stop:
f-number = base × (√2)^(EV offset)
A base of f/8 bracketed +1 EV (one stop darker, smaller opening) becomes
8 × √2 ≈ f/11. The tool handles the sign correctly: a positive EV offset always
means a brighter frame, so for aperture it moves to a smaller f-number.
Building the sequence
You choose:
- Span — plus and minus 1, 2 or 3 stops around the base.
- Step — full (1 EV), half (0.5 EV) or third (0.333 EV) increments.
The number of frames is (2 × span ÷ step) + 1, always an odd number with the
base exposure in the centre.
Worked example: a sunset landscape
You meter the mid-tones at 1/60 s, f/11, ISO 100, but the bright sky and dark foreground clearly exceed one exposure. You choose a ±2 stop bracket in full-stop steps. The sequence the calculator produces:
| Frame | EV offset | Shutter speed | Purpose |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | −2 EV | 1/250 s | Expose the bright sky |
| 2 | −1 EV | 1/125 s | Slight underexposure |
| 3 | 0 EV | 1/60 s | Metered base frame |
| 4 | +1 EV | 1/30 s | Slight overexposure |
| 5 | +2 EV | 1/15 s | Expose the dark shadow |
Aperture stays f/11 and ISO stays 100 throughout, so noise and depth of field are identical in every frame. The five images merge cleanly in Lightroom, Photomatix, or any HDR-capable editor.
Choosing span and step for your scene
A ±1 stop bracket (three frames) handles moderate contrast situations — a person backlit by a bright window, for example. The tonal range is 2 stops, which most cameras record across a 3-frame AEB set.
A ±2 stop bracket covers roughly 4 stops of extra range and is the most common choice for architectural interiors and real estate photography, where the view through a window is always much brighter than the room.
A ±3 stop bracket in third-stop steps produces 19 frames and maps the full dynamic range of extreme scenes such as a church interior with stained glass. Tone-mapping from this many frames gives very smooth gradations but requires a sturdy tripod and a scene with no moving elements.
Half-stop and third-stop steps add more overlap between frames, which is helpful for high-bit-depth blending workflows. For straight HDR tone-mapping, full-stop steps are usually enough.
Notes and tips
- Bracket the shutter for static scenes. It keeps depth of field and noise constant across the set — essential for clean HDR merges.
- Use a tripod for anything beyond three frames so the frames align.
- Watch the slow end. Bracketing +3 EV from a handheld 1/60 s pushes you to 1/8 s, well into shake territory — the tool flags very slow resulting shutter speeds.
- Enable auto-exposure bracketing (AEB) on your camera to fire the sequence automatically in one press, reducing alignment errors.
All calculations run locally in your browser.